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How to Make a Quilted JacketLearn how to turn any regular jacket pattern into a quilted jacket!
Finally I've pulled out my patterns and taken the time to play and create a fantastic quilted Kimono jacket! Creating this design was actually easier than you might think. I know it looks very complicated, but in truth, the design process took less than 6 hours from start to finish. Of course if you choose to use a quilting stencil or simply free motion quilt the surface of the garment, your project would be much faster to start and finish. Click here for more pictures and info about Leah's Kimono Jacket Through this project I had many goals: 1. Create a quilted garment that doesn't make me look like the Michelin Man, a Snowman, or an member of the WWF. 2. Figure out a way to make the seamlines flat and comfortable. No buldging lines or stiff edges please! 3. Finish the jacket so that it's double sided and can be worn to show off either side. This might seem like a pretty stiff set of goals, but it's actually very easy! Each goal really accompanies the others. You can easily make a quilted garment that fits close to your body by using cheap flannel in place of a real batting. This flannel is easier to work with and trim down which makes the seams lie flatter. Flatter seams mean that with a little hand stitching, you can have a double sided jacket! So here's how you can create one yourself: 1. Pick a pattern you like - You're looking for patterns that pick heavy, thick fabrics because no matter how thin your batting or flannel, you're going to finish with a pretty thick garment. If you pick a garment that doesn't allow for this bulk, chances are it won't fit once it's finished. Most jackets and vest patterns, especially those that use fleece, allow for this bulk and are the best to use. 2. Test the fit - Trust me, the last thing you want to do is spend 10-20 hours quilting a garment that doesn't fit. Either hold the tissue up to your body and pin it or go the full 9 yards and make up a test piece with fleece or another thick cheap fabric. You will be very happy that you did! 3. Mark the design on fabric - Don't cut out your fabric on the lines! Mark the pattern on the fabric first using a water soluble blue pen (light fabrics) or soapstone (dark fabrics). Also mark any registration lines and dots. 4. Cut out your fabric - Now cut out the fabric 2 inches away from the marks on all sides. You need the extra space in case you have shifting during the quilting process. 5. Decide on your design - For a simple design, take a quilting stencil and mark the design on your jacket using the same marking tools as you used to mark the fabric pattern lines. For a more complex, personally made design, create a copy of your pattern on graph paper and play with designs using a light box. 6. Mark you designs - Mark your garmet on the back, fronts, and sleeves. Make sure to leave 5/8" open around all edges for your seam. Don't quilt right to the edges or the garment will be difficult to finish. 7. Cut out backing and batting - Using your already cut fabric pieces, cut out backing fabric and flannel or batting for the middle. From my experience, you'll want to pick a backing (inside fabric) that's close to the outside fabric unless you're very comfortable quilting in contrasting thread. 8. Sandwich and baste - Using quilters basting pins, baste your garment just like a quilt, working from the center out and smooothing all wrinkles as you go.
For loser, more comfortable garments, only stitch the design lines and don't fill in the background area. Remember, don't quilt inside the seam allowance! 10. Cut your pattern out - After you're completely done with the quilting process, lay the pattern back over your garment and cut each piece out along the lines for your size. 11. Piece your garment - Following the pattern directions, piece your garment just like normal, but instead of piecing through all 3 layers of the quilting, only seam together the outside fabric and flannel or batting. Do not stitch through the inside fabric. Pin it aside to use to finish your insideseams. 12. Finish Your Seams - Working with one seam at a time, press your seam open. Trim away the batting or fannel as close to the seam as possible without cutting through it. Cut the outside fabric seam allowance down to 1/4 inch. Now unpin the inside fabric that you held aside during the piecing process. Take one side of the inside fabric and smooth it across the seam. You may need to trim this down a little to get it to lay down nicely. Now take the other side and fold it under 1/4 inch. Pin this over the seam and hand stitch it down to secure. Special instructions for arm holes - Arm holes can be a beast, no doubt about it. Finish and hand stitch ALL of your other seams (shoulder, side seams, and arm seam) before tackling your arm hole seams. Be very careful how much fabric you clip away, especialy in the underarm area. When you do finish this seam, it should be the arm fabric that is folded on top and stitched down for the best finish. 13. Finish your hems - A very easy hem is the cut down your fabric to 1/2" less than the specifications of your pattern (so if your pattern calls for a 2 inch hem, cut off 1 1/2 inches of fabric). Cut the batting down an extra 1/2 inch. Fold under the inside and outside fabrics 1/2 inch, pin, then run a line of stitching 1/8 inch away from the edge to secure. 14. Bury and clip all threads and enjoy your new quilted garment! More photos and info about Leah's Kimono Jacket
My kimono jacket was created with Simplicity pattern 5345 and the I used the following free motion quilting designs to fill in the ying-yangs: Tree Roots (see photo above), Brain Coral, and Swirling Flames.
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Day Style Designs: How to Make a Quilted Jacket
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For
years I've wanted to have a closet full of quilted clothing. I've
especially wanted a jacket I could wear to quilting events so that
when people saw it, they would immediately know I was quilter and
not just a coerced family member being forced to attend. 
